Thousands of devotees flock to the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño in Cebu City, Philippines on January 16, 2025. FRANCES ANNE YU/EXPAT MEDIA

With a few days before the Sinulog festival in Cebu, Philippines this Sunday, I find myself reminiscing about one of my most cherished memories as a Cebu native. Living thousands of miles away in Dubai, my heart yearns for the familiar sights, sounds, and spirit of Sinulog every January. It’s not just a festival; it’s a way of life deeply ingrained in every Cebuano’s soul. And it all starts at the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño. Growing up in Cebu, my memories of Sinulog always began with a visit to the oldest Roman Catholic church in the Philippines, built in 1565. The Basilica, as we fondly call it, stands as a beacon of faith, history, and tradition. Every time I entered its sacred halls, I was struck by the sheer devotion of people who gathered there, especially during the days leading up to the Feast of the Santo Niño, celebrated every third Sunday of January.

Bato Balani sa Gugma and dance of faith

For me, one of the most moving parts of Sinulog is attending the special masses at the Basilica and singing the hymn Bato Balani sa Gugma. Thousands of hands rise in unison, swaying rhythmically as the song’s prayerful melody fills the air. Even now, in Dubai, I find myself tearing up when my sister sends me videos of this scene from her visits to the Basilica. Her messages always end with, “Pit Senyor, kang Poyen kini”—a prayerful shout-out to the Santo Niño on my behalf. A visit to the Basilica isn’t complete without encountering the “manangs,” the dancing candle vendors. These women are more than just vendors; they are prayer warriors who perform the Sinug, a traditional dance prayer, as they hold candles and murmur petitions. The dance’s two-steps-forward, one-step-backward rhythm mimics the waves of the sea, a nod to Cebu’s maritime heritage and a symbolic offering to the Santo Niño. I remember my mother’s words: “If you need help or just want to say thank you for the blessings, ‘sangpit’ sa Santo Niño.” This belief was passed down through generations, and even now, my sister continues this tradition, lighting candles and offering prayers on my behalf every chance she gets.

Origins and evolution of Sinulog

The Sinulog dance itself predates Spanish colonization in the Philippines, with roots in ancient rituals performed by early Cebuanos to honor their gods. Today, it’s a vibrant blend of cultural and religious expressions. While the festival has grown into a grand celebration with street dances, concerts, and parades, its core remains deeply spiritual. As Fr. Genesis Labana of the Basilica notes, the first Sinulog was purely a religious offering, a tradition that persists amidst modern commercialism. The last time I attended the Sinulog festival was in 2010. I vividly remember getting caught in a sea of humanity on Fuente Osmeña, walking for kilometers just to catch a glimpse of the street dances. Since 2023, the grand parade has moved to the South Road Properties, a change I’ve only experienced through stories and photos shared by family and friends. This year, the Sinulog festival is back on Cebu City's streets where it has traditionally been held. Here in Dubai, we have our own modest Sinulog celebrations at St. Mary’s Church. Filipinos gather in colorful attire, carrying images of the Santo Niño and sharing the joy of this deeply meaningful tradition. It’s a comforting reminder of home, made possible by the UAE’s spirit of tolerance and respect for diverse cultures. In my Dubai apartment, I keep two Santo Niño images gifted by my late aunt and cousin. “He will keep you safe,” they told me, and I’ve felt His presence in every challenge and triumph. These images, like the candles at the Basilica, are more than symbols—they are vessels of hope and faith. As Sinulog 2025 approaches, I find myself filled with gratitude and longing. Gratitude for the traditions that shaped me and longing for the vibrant streets of Cebu, the spiritual embrace of the Basilica, and the unbreakable bond with the Santo Niño. To all celebrating this year, from Cebu to Dubai and beyond, I say, “Pit Senyor!” PIA/EXPAT MEDIA | With inputs from Frances Anne Yu
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